Welcome to the enchanting world of cut rose cultivation, where passion meets precision and nature’s elegance flourishes under controlled conditions.
In this inaugural blog post, we embark on a fascinating journey into the art of planting Speedling cut roses within the nurturing embrace of a passive greenhouse.
From the tender touch of soil to the whisper of gentle sunlight filtering through the greenhouse panes, every element plays a vital role in nurturing these delicate blossoms to perfection.
Join us as we unravel the secrets behind the art of Speedling cut rose cultivation, exploring the intricacies of passive greenhouse gardening and the allure of these timeless botanical treasures.
Whether you’re a seasoned horticulturist seeking new insights or a budding enthusiast eager to cultivate your own slice of floral paradise, this journey promises to inspire, educate, and ignite a passion for the timeless beauty of cut roses.
What are Speedling rose plugs??
Speedling rose is made through a grafting process. Grafting is a process of propagation where a piece of one rose (scion) is fused onto another rose (rootstock). This is usually done because the rose that the graft is made on is stronger and can tolerate more stress. The host plant is more disease-resistant and or have desirable flower colour.
The grafted material is then deepened in growth hormone and planted in coco’s peat or pine bark for it to grow roots and leaves. Many nurseries have a special area where the grafted material is kept until they have nice roots and leaves.
Let look at how to plant speedling cut roses in a passive greenhouse or a tunnel.
1. IRRIGATION
a) The Facility– The irrigation scheme is based on drip irrigation with a venturi or hydraulic pump, to introduce the nutritional requirements.
Before planting out, the whole system must be field treated and initial calibration of the venturi completed. It is very important that during that during fertigation, the fertilizer is introduced at the start of the set and finished at the end of the set.
This is important at all times, but particularly so with young newly growing roots from about 7 days after planting out. Thus , time taken to calibrate the fertigation system ahead of time is essential.
b) Pre-Planting Irrigation– It is important the whole bed profile is at field capacity before planting. This will be best achieved by overhead irrigation. To ensure an even distribution, apply the irrigation in three sets to achieve field capacity.
2. BED PREPARATION
a) Bed Making
The objective is clear- to have beds made to a consistent settled height of 35 cm with extra care taken to maintain absolute level bed tops and evenly draining pathways. Endeavor to achieve a full 80 cm wide bed top.
b) Marking Out Planting Stations
Here the objective is to plant +-62000- 65000 bushes per ha. The bushes are set in 2 rows per bed.
The rows should be aligned as far apart as possible( with careful bed making, this distance can be 45 cm however, 35-45 cm are acceptable, with the plants at least 10-15 cm in from the edge of the bed).
Between row distances must be consistent throughout, so for example, if the beds along the greenhouse pole line cannot accommodate 45 cm between the line spacing, then reduce all between line distances to the potential on the narrow beds.
The distances between plants in the row are calculated by dividing the total length of the bed top by the number of plants planned for the planting eg on a 1 ha greenhouse you are likely to have 145 beds x 40 m long = 5800m bed top.
You plan to plant 62000 plants per hector. 5800/62000=0.09m x 2(since there are 2 lines) =0.18 or 18 cm between plants.
3.PLANTING OPERATION
Mark out planting stations exactly as your planting configuration demands. Rows must be dead straight and between planting distances precise. The planting should be 10 cm deep x 10 cm wide.
The planting out
i) Take plants out of the cold room, as you need them. Do not allow them to warm up and dry out before planting. As you remove plants from the boxes, keep the remaining plants in the box covered with a damp cloth.
When plants are taken out of their containers, all sub standard plants must be separated and discarded.
ii) Plants should ne placed gently adjacent to the planting station. The plant should be placed in the planting hole and setting water poured into the hole just ahead of or at the time of placing the plant into the soil. It is important to get consistent depth of planting. The graft union should end up +/- 3 cm above settled bed level. After back, filling, the soil should be gently firmed around the plant.
4.AFTER PLANTING CARE
Mulch– A light grass mulch ( previously fumigated) should be spread over the top of the bed to help retain a moist bed top, which will also help maintain a high humidity around the speedlings.
Irrigation– After mulching. if there is any doubt about the moisture status in the soil ,a light overhead irrigation (misting) should be applied keeping the top 4-5 cm of soil moist. Whether or not this irrigation is applied, the actual target of irrigation is to maintain a good humidity around the plants. Very little, if any water will be used by the plants until new active roots develop. Foliage on the plants must be kept active to manufacture the energy to feed the new roots. To achieve this, a hose and rose should be used to keep mulch damp and cool by frequent passes over the bed top and pathways. It will take up to seven days for new active roots to develop ( careful excavation of soil around the root areas will reveal this development).
Please not that healthy, active leaf growth is not a true sign of good/successful take.
Drip irrigation should be introduced after the planting operation. The purpose is to develop sub-surface wetting patterns. These should be light applications, say 2mm/day but offered as 4mm every second day ( 2m3 water/1000m3 of gross tunnel or greenhouse area)
Fertigation can commence after examination reveals general initiation of the new roots.
Light hose and rose watering (misting) should continue until the plant is seen to be actively growing with good root and leaf development after drip irrigation commences.
Take away
For successful planting of speedlings, the preparations before planting are all important. The main points are:
i) Good bed preparation
ii) Careful pre-irrigation
iii) Accurate marking out of planting stations
iv) Careful transplanting including plant station.
v) Even mulch distribution and frequent light hose and rose watering until active root growth are evident throughout the planted area
By following this simple guide, I can guarantee success of establishment of speedling rose bushes in a greenhouse or tunnel.
If you have questions or need further clarification please do not hesitate to leave a message in the comment box below.
Happy growing of cut roses.
This is a fantastic guide on planting Speedling cut roses! The detailed steps from irrigation setup to after-planting care makes what I assume isn’t easy it seem like a breeze 🙂 It’s amazing how precise bed preparation and consistent planting techniques can lead to such stunning results.
Quick questuion though; After the initial planting what are some effective ways to keep the roses thrivingover the long term?
Thank you very much for your comment.
To ensure that speedling roses continue to thrive in a passive greenhouse over the long term, you need to focus on several key areas: proper care, regular maintenance, and attentive monitoring. Here are some effective ways to achieve this:
– Consistent Watering and Irrigation:
i) Drip Irrigation: Implement a drip irrigation system to provide a consistent and controlled water supply. Ensure that the soil remains moist but not waterlogged.
ii)Watering Schedule: Adjust the watering schedule based on the season and the roses’ growth stage. Typically, roses need more water during their active growing phase and less during dormancy.
– Nutrient Management:
i) Fertilization: Regularly feed the roses with a balanced fertilizer. Use a slow-release fertilizer or apply liquid fertilizers every 4-6 weeks during the growing season.
ii) Soil Amendments: Periodically test the soil and amend it with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to maintain soil fertility and structure.
-Pruning and Deadheading:
i) Pruning: Prune roses to remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood. Regular pruning encourages healthy growth and blooming.
ii)Deadheading: Remove spent flowers to promote continuous blooming and prevent the plant from expending energy on seed production.
– Pest and Disease Control:
i)Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Implement an IPM strategy that includes regular monitoring, identifying pests and diseases early, and using appropriate control methods (biological, mechanical, or chemical) as needed.
ii)Sanitation: Keep the greenhouse clean and remove any fallen leaves or debris that can harbor pests and diseases.
-Environmental Control:
i) Temperature Regulation: Ensure the greenhouse maintains optimal temperature ranges for rose growth. Use shading or ventilation to prevent overheating and provide adequate airflow.
ii) Humidity Control: Monitor and maintain appropriate humidity levels to prevent fungal diseases. Use fans or dehumidifiers if necessary.
-Support and Training:
i) Staking and Tying: Provide support for the rose bushes as they grow. Use stakes or trellises to keep the plants upright and promote good air circulation.
ii) Training: Train the roses to grow in the desired direction, ensuring even growth and better exposure to light.
– Regular Monitoring and Maintenance:
i) Weekly Inspections: Conduct regular inspections to check for signs of stress, pests, diseases, or nutrient deficiencies. Address any issues promptly.
ii) Record Keeping: Maintain detailed records of watering schedules, fertilization, pruning, and any pest or disease occurrences. This helps in tracking plant health and making informed decisions.
I will be writing more articles on passive greenhouse maintenance of cut roses.